Lighthearted living, loose connections
Hokuto conjures up the forests of northern Europe, perhaps on account of its name meaning “forest of the north.” Time seems to flow slower in a land where the water sparkles in the sunlight, the forests are beautiful and mysterious, and where people’s lives are simple and rich.
Yuichi Takeuchi of TREEHEADS showed us a forest lined with small houses with tires, exhibiting a new way of living. The idea for the mobile tiny house came from his experience living in a hotel while building a treehouse out of earthquake debris. Moved by Dee Williams’ TED speech, “Your world will expand if you let go of the superfluous and live simply,” he has been working on a project called “Homemade Village,” a low-key community where people can learn to connect with nature and live simply. A nimble way of life that is not bound by the concepts of ownership or fixation is bound to attract more attention in the future.
The authentic spice cuisine at “mountain*mountain w/cafe flat,” which overlooks the Southern Alps from its large windows, was self-taught by owner Hiroshi Yamashita, an erstwhile news photographer who traveled to many different countries. We are surprised to hear that he built the store the same year he moved here.
“The view of the mountains is different every day,” he says, squinting out the window. Although he is already stoked with his life here, making soy sauce and mushroom casseroles with locals, he is also looking forward to lending out books at his store and making wine from the grapes he grows in the forest. After traveling far and wide, Yamashita has found that life in Hokuto is light and relaxed, with a relaxed connection to people and nature.
Constantly evolving bonds between earth and people
The vibe of this town is a product not only of the forests and water, but also of the sense of its denizens.
“Gallery Trax” is one such Hokuto institution. It was opened in 1993 by the late Jiro Kimura, whose furniture and space designs attracted many people, and his partner Etsuko Miyoshi. Since then, it has warmly greeted visitors and has introduced many artists to the world. While serving us homemade berry cake and plum juice, Etsuko smiles and says, “Just being here is good enough for me because I can connect with people across generations and borders through Trax.”
Ryoichi Daikyu of “sundaysfood” found his way to this area through Trax. He moved to Hokuto from Kobe and once moved to Kofu, but two years ago, with Etsuko’s encouragement, converted the material storage space in front of Trax into a new store. It is now a very popular restaurant that draws in hordes of hungry diners as soon as it opens. The sweet fragrance of bread and sweets wafts through the air, and the large windows framing the mountains together with the refined details of the interior make you feel as if you are in a foreign country.
“While this a lush natural setting, there are many urbanites and a large community between the Yatsugatake and the Southern Alps,” explains Daikyu-san. He also shared with us his desire to link up a community hub where people from all walks of life can gather to enjoy not only food, but also music, art, and other cultural offerings. Propelled by such a sense of style, a succession of wonderful stores has sprung up one after another. The land beckons people, and the people in turn beckon others. The bonds between land and people are intertwined and widening.
Living as nature intended
Kosuke and Yuka Yamato of “DILL eat, life.,” which serves organic food in a lodge that looks like a mountain hut, relocated from Tokyo to live in a land rich in water – the lifeblood of human life – after their experience in the earthquake disaster. What does food mean to them I wonder? “You are what you eat.” Looking at the poster with these words written on it, they explain: “What you eat is something you do every day. The choice you make is very important. We want to convey the story of the earth through food.” As we enjoyed a salad and soup of seasonal vegetables, our minds turned to the backstory of this food, and we were filled with a sense of richness and nourishment. It served to remind one of the importance of living with gratitude every day, something we tend to forget in the midst of our busy lives.
Sumika Uehara of “camino natural Lab” is a friend of the Yamatos who is working to create edible forests by reusing fields and rice paddies that have been abandoned and are no longer cultivated. She calls reforestation “rewilding” and says that the addition of human hands speeds up the reforestation process. Sumika-san, who says her goal is for the project to be completed in 100 years, took us on a tour of the forest. Pointing to the filtration stones, she explained, “This is a home for insects. If insects live here, birds will gather, and the ecosystem will return.” I plan to carry on having fun with the help of nature,” – which apparently includes letting the moles build waterways and the beetles make compost.
After the walk, we were served a wild aromatic tea prepared with medicinal herbs from the forest. The tasty tea has health benefits that are just what the doctor ordered. The forest and Sumika’s smiles reminded us that “it’s okay to be just as you are,” as we felt the tensions slipping away. The answer to the question, “What is true wealth” will become clear as day once you encounter the nature of Hokuto and the diverse lifestyles of the people who live there. After all, to each their own.
A journey to discover what nature has to offer
Tour de Nippon in Yamanashi Hokuto
Held on the weekend of July 8 and 9, 2023
Witness the charm of Hokuto with views of Mt. Yatsugatake and the Southern Alps! On the first day, bike along an undulating scenic route with beautiful greenery and refreshing breezes, visiting some stylish local spots. Lodgings for the night are at the popular outdoor facility “Hakushu-Oshiro no Mori Meisui Koen Beruga” . On the second day, in addition to cycling, we will hike Mt.Hinata. You will be rewarded with a spectacular view of white sand that is hard to believe that you are on top of a mountain. Come and join us on a tour around Hokuto for a breath of fresh air.
The call for participation in the Tour de Nippon in Yamanashi Hokuto is scheduled to open in early May 2023.
Tour de Nippon Guide
Hokuto, Yamanashi
Homemade Village
8240-2717 Nishiide, Oizumi-cho, Hokuto
mountain*mountain w/cafe flat
491-7 Hino, Nagasaka-cho, Hokuto
TEL: 0551-45-6796
Gallery Trax
1245 Gomachida, Takane-cho, Hokuto
TEL: 080-5028-4915
sundaysfood
1227-1 Gomachida, Takane-cho, Hokuto
TEL: 0551-88-9011
DILL eat,life.
984-6 Oigamori, Nagasaka-cho, Hokuto
TEL: 0551-45-7512
camino natural Lab
1242-3 Asaoshinden, Akeno-cho, Hokuto
Nohohon BOOKS&COFFEE
8240-8420 Nishiide, Oizumi-cho, Hokuto
TEL: 0551-45-9022