A new Onomichi beyond the historic alleys
Onomichi lies on the coast of the Seto Inland Sea. It flourished as a hub of marine transport along the Onomichi Channel, aka the river in the sea, flowing between the city center and Mukaishima, meaning island on the opposite side. Up the hilly Yamate district home to historic Buddhist temples, the plateau overlooks the stunning miniature garden cityscape brimming with history and culture, and farther ahead, the undulating skyline of the islands. This scenic beauty has inspired Japan’s literary giants and been featured as the setting of countless films. Today, brilliant unique spots are popping up and providing Onomichi with new attractions. Let’s slip on a pair of comfortable Teva® shoes and explore the charms beyond the backstreets and steep hillsides.
First and foremost, hop up the stone steps to LLove House Onomichi, a 110-year-old traditional Japanese house renovated by Jo Nagasaka, of Schemata Architects, into a base of cultural exchange where creators can stay and collaborate with the people of Onomichi. You’re greeted by the managers Masami Nakata and Natsuko Matsui. The couple had once returned to their native Nagano to raise their children, but when invited by their former boss, Nagasaka, to visit Onomichi, they fell in love with the city and decided the family should move there. “There’s always something to find on a walk along the paths of Onomichi. Every day is a journey of discovery.” Chatting with the smiling couple raises your expectations for the trip ahead.
Outside the Yamate district, weave your way through the network of narrow alleys barely wide enough for one person to walk and head for the books and music store Shihen. The door outlined in ivy leads to an interior of blue-gray walls lined with myriad books and the comforting sound of music. Even the time seems to pass by slowly here, inviting you to stay for hours. Books and music that you discover while traveling may be different from your usual favorites, but they’re one-off gifts to cherish for good.
How about sharing the experiences and inspirations of your trip in a letter to yourself or someone special? Tuzuru is a stationery shop and café offering Onomichi’s literature and tea culture through the viewpoint of the customer. The owner, Yumika Kawamura, is delighted to say, “I once had a couple where the man had no interest in writing letters when he came in, but ended up buying a fountain pen on his way out.” Try putting your feelings down in writing, and you just might discover something new about yourself.
Painting a bright future for Onomichi
Bakeries selling delicious bread attract people from near and far. One such bakery that opened in 2011 is Panya Koro. “The name comes from Anya koro (A Dark Night’s Passing), by Onomichi’s literary great Naoya Shiga. I wanted my shop to be a link connecting the people and the place,” says the owner, Shuhei Terachi. Enjoy the savory bread on the bench at the end of the street while picturing the scenes of Onomichi depicted by Japan’s celebrated authors.
The aura of this seaside city, with the caress of the sea breeze, is sure to feel even more amazing while pedaling. Better Bicycles offers rental bikes that are both stylish and practical. The manager, Hideo Baba, says, “I hope to combine cycling with all kinds of other activities and introduce new ways to enjoy the Shimanami Kaido,” The a cycling route between Onomichi and Imabari is today a magnet for cyclists and tourists from in and outside Japan.
Onomichi’s rise to international popularity owes in no small part to the 2014 opening of Onomichi U2, a complex renovated from an old dockside warehouse by architect Makoto Tanjiri. The industrial design of the interior houses local crafts and foods, creating the atmosphere of an overseas market. One of the tenants, Hotel Cycle, offers the special experience of checking in with your bike. Look out the windows and take in the soothing view of the Onomichi Channel turning crimson in the afternoon light.
Before the sun sets, head for Esquina close to Onomichi Station. Meaning “corner” in Spanish, the specialty coffee shop seeks to serve as a cozy corner for every visitor. The owner, Megumi Takeda, says, “Onomichi attracts all kinds of people from every part of the globe. The mood here is light and casual, because it isn’t the final destination but one stop on the way to the next.”
Onomichi is dotted with all these brilliant unique spots. Let their light guide you through the backstreets and the hillsides, and keep taking light steps, because you may be in for a stroke of serendipity. Your find here promises to be the ticket to your next journey.
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