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SHIMANAMI DREAMERS 03

Ohmishima Minna no Winery
Shoko Kawata, Yusuke Kawata

Making Wine is a Part of Life

 

04/11/2024

Wine Born on the Island of Mandarin Oranges


“I want to capture the essence of Omishima,” said Yusuke Kawata, owner of Minna no Winery, walking through the vineyard.

“I believe that bringing out the taste of this land will result in even better wine.”

The local wine making initiative led by world-renowned architect Toyo Ito began on Omishima out of concern for the increasing number of abandoned farm lots. By taking over deserted mikan (mandarin orange) fields and switching to cultivating grapes for winemaking, it has become the only winery in the Shimanami Kaido, producing about 20 varieties of wine each season.

“Being close to the sea is beneficial because it leaves minerals in the wine. The Seto Inland Sea’s warm climate and low rainfall are also favorable conditions for the maturing of grapes. We faced some challenges with soil preparation and wildlife control, but I believe we’re gradually getting closer to our ideal wine.”

They cultivate over five varieties of grapes for winemaking, including Muscat Bailey A.
 In the western part of Omishima, there is a brewery that stands on the grounds of a decommissioned elementary school. Here you’ll find rows of stainless steel tanks capable of holding 20,000 bottles of wine, with some batches also aged in French oak barrels.

Despite facing the sea, the winery doesn’t experience strong winds. The unique climate of the Seto Inland Sea, which is not only suitable for citrus but also for grape cultivation, has proven advantageous. The winery has grown to a total of three hectares, including its own farm and that of contracted farmers on the island.

“Making wine is like raising a child,”says Kawata-san. “It’s not just a job — it’s a part of life. It’s hard work, but it’s worth getting obsessed about. Even now, tasting new batches from the tank, I still get excited about what flavors will emerge.”

Named after his daughter, Shima Yuhi, the labels feature Ito-san’s sketches.


Shoko Kawata, Yusuke Kawata
Yusuke is in charge of cultivation and winemaking at Minna no Winery, while Shoko handles the administrative duties. Shoko also stands at “Omishima Minna no Ie” along the main walkway of the Oyamazumi Shrine, where she oversees the sales and paid tasting of wine.

photography | Natsumi Kinugasa, Toshitake Suzuki text | Yosuke Uchida