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SHIMANAMI DREAMERS 02

Azumi Setoda
Kenya Akita

Making Setouchi Veggies into Specialties

 

04/03/2024

So Fresh You Can Almost Hear the Farmers Breathing


Located on Ikuchi Island, the town of Setoda is gaining momentum. Elevating its food scene a notch higher is Kenya Akita, who took over as the head chef at Azumi Setoda in 2022. He specializes in sustainable French cuisine that brings out and accentuates the full flavor of seasonal vegetables to the fullest.

“We use ingredients found within a 50km radius,” says Akita-san. “Vegetables, citrus, seafood. I think the Seto Inland Sea’s produce has tremendous potential.”

This dish, tailored to Thai cuisine, uses French techniques such as smoking fish bones to make broth without using soy sauce, mirin, or kelp.

The table menus not only showcase a curated 10-course feast but also pay homage to the farmers and producers behind the ingredients alongside each dish. Featured on this day were thirteen local producers such as Ebisumaru, comorebi farm, Shimashima Farm, Minato Group, and last but not least, Akita Farm, bearing the chef’s own name.

This miniature garden is actually a butternut squash and mussel gratin.

“We only feature vegetables from fields I have personally visited. I see where the producers work, talk with them, and see the vegetables being grown with my own eyes. When I was in Tokyo, no matter how abundant the ingredients were, I felt something was missing because I couldn’t see the process of how they were grown. It was after coming to Setouchi and interacting with the producers that I started Akita Farm, wanting to grow vegetables myself. Just thinking about what kinds of vegetables to grow and how to cook them, it’s so exciting.”

A gazebo used for meditation sessions and tea ceremonies.


Kenya Akita
Kenya Akita, born in 1977 in Fukuoka Prefecture, honed his skills in Michelin-starred restaurants in France from 2007. He led Nœud.TOKYO to its first Michelin star as head chef. Currently the head chef at Azumi Setoda.

photography | Natsumi Kinugasa, Toshitake Suzuki text | Yosuke Uchida