Numakuma Peninsula connecting Fukuyama and Onomichi
How far have we pedaled? 13km? How come? A short breather in a picturesque port town. The bike next to the nightlight that has been watching over the Seto Inland Sea for about 160 years stands classic and neatly, like a companion marking time on equal terms.
Onomichi is probably the center of sightseeing in the Seto Inland Sea. It is the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido, with its alluring townscape. But if you are looking for the center of life and commerce, it is the neighboring city of Fukuyama. The town is bustling with people commuting to work and school, and residents congregate in the neighborhood for shopping and fun on weekends and holidays. The imposing Fukuyama Castle with its 4 centuries of history is a must-see tourist attraction. The railroad line and highway connecting Fukuyama and Onomichi run inland, while on the sea side, the Numakuma Peninsula wraps around the coastline. Weaving its way along this coastline is the “Shiomachi Kaido.” Pedaling along the 30-km road, you may discover a new facet of the Seto Inland Sea that differs from the one that connects the islands.
With Fukuyama Castle in the background near JR Fukuyama Station, we hopped on our bikes and began the trip. As the central city of the region, there is a lot of traffic. But drivers seem well-disposed toward cyclists, perhaps as the prefecture has fostered a number of sea routes. As I pedaled along, another car with Fukuyama license plates signaled to me to give way.
Three kilometers from the start, you reach the promenade along the Ashida River. The sky opens up to reveal stunning scenery on the other side of the river. We pedal toward the sea, among the locals walking their dogs or jogging. Coming across an unmanned skatepark, we almost feel like riding in and busting out a few tricks. After all, the bikes are made of titanium, and are lightweight and easy to maneuver.
Spending Tomonoura time the local way
The set of wheels for this journey is “CLASSIC SPORTS” by “CICLORE”.
CICLORE is a bicycle brand produced by RE:, a lifestyle store with stores in Beijing and Shanghai. The shape is beautiful, fitting for a brand that claims to offer products rooted in bicycle living. The 3AL-2.5V alloy’s slender titanium pipes not only offer excellent mobility, but also a finish that blends in well with the street. Because of its neat form, it blends in with the beautiful cityscape of Tomonoura.
Tomonoura, located in the southern part of the Numakuma Peninsula, retains a strong Edo period flavor and has been designated as a national Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. This port has flourished since ancient times, even being mentioned in the Man’yōshū, as a place to wait for the tide and wind to change. In the days when ships did not have their own motive power, they had to wait for the ebb and flow of the tide and wind changes before they could leave port, making it a key point for shipping and a place for people to interact with each other.
But the tides and winds are not the only reasons why people of yesteryear converged on Tomonoura; Here, time seems to drift along like the calm of the sea. The third-generation owner of “Naruto-Do” in front of the gate casually mentioned that it has been over 100 years since it opened for business. In stark contrast to the bewildering pace of modern times, the flow of time has become slack, as if passing in one century increments. If you want to while away the time, you can spend a night at NIPPONIA Tomo Harbor Town, a dispersed lodging facility renovated from a building dating back to the Edo period.
We recharged our batteries with a sweet thin-skinned manju from Naruto-do and got back in the saddle. After passing Tomonoura, the Shiomachi Kaido leads into the mountains as if crossing a promontory. The steep descent in the direction of Onomichi continues, but CLASSIC SPORTS provides assurance with its disc brakes and through-axle. After negotiating the steep slope, a calm sea awaited as if to celebrate our safe passage.
Tajima, Yokoshima, and Fukushima…..The joy of bicycle travel is the opportunity to take a long, close look at the beauty of the numerous islands of the Seto Inland Sea. The Numakuma Peninsula and Tajima are connected by the Uchiumi Bridge, which has a large curvature in the center. Surrounding the bridge are many shipyards of the most dynamic scale. Just as the rural satoyama scenery starts to dominate, a sign indicating the entrance to Onomichi appears.
The starting point on the Onomichi side of the Shiomachi Kaido is not in the city center. Tosaki Port is the goal of this trip, and from there, a boat crossing to finish. While Onomichi city center is worth a look, it is also fun to cross over to Utado port on the opposite shore and ride around Mukaishima island. Once you straddle the saddle, that’s your cue to start your journey.
Naruto-do
1151 Tomo-machi Gochi, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture
TEL：084-982-2037
Nipponia Tomo Port Town
595 Tomo-machi, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture
TEL：070-1458-7743
Okinokannon
2975 Urasaki-cho, Onomichi, Hiroshima
