I believe that the proximity of nature lightens my heart without me even knowing it.
What is it about a place, a person or a piece of art that attracts you to them? Is it value, popularity, trend, or is it something else? Or is it your personal opinion, sense of taste, curiosity or just a feeling?
Arriving in Kagoshima for the first time I immediately had the feeling “I like this place”. Curiously catching views across the bay of Sakurajima as I rode the Shiden (city tram) on my way to meet the creative outlier Okataoka.
Kagoshima: of all the words used to describe the people of Kagoshima, three came to mind most frequently: shy, kind and nonbiri (carefree). Okataoka turned up a few minutes late driving a Citroen Picasso —one of only 200 or so in Japan. It was 8:00am and we were going for a carefree drive not before stopping by one of his friends’ studio to say good morning and collect a Car Flower Vase for the journey. As we drove we talked about the creative process and Okataoka’s latest project called ‘Highway’. The Japanese ‘Hai’ meaning ‘ash’ and ‘way’ a synonym for ‘road’: Ash Road.
After taking the 15 minute —fun, always fun— ferry from Kagoshima across the bay we were on the Ash Road circling the ever changing Sakurajima carefreely smouldering as we passed. I was surprised to see a car park attendant actually cleaning the lot with a special ash sweeper and elementary school students wearing yellow helmets as they made their way home after school (usually made of soft washable polyester). The impressive landscape was like nothing I’d seen before —we explored the rocks leaving dusty footprints in the ash.
On the morning before my arrival Sakurajima erupted 3400m into the air; watching the movie clip I now understand the yellow helmets. The day after I left, another eruption occurred. It seems like I wasn’t going to see the active volcano on this trip, not that I wanted to, but I kinda do.
“Abunai (dangerous)” I say, “aren’t you worried about the gigantic active volcano just over there? The omnipresent answer being —nonbiri— “No”.
Okataoka introduced me to the artist Somiya Ichinen (曾宮一念), who throughout his life made many drawings and paintings of Sakurajima. Like us English, the weather is always the subject of conversation; the citizens of Kagoshima always have Sakurajima to talk about. Artists will never be wanting for a subject as the omnipresent volcano occupies the view, mind and any empty piece of paper. Thus inspiring the local craftspeople and designers alike. I thought about what my own recurring subject matter might be; perhaps Mt. Kurakake or Hakusan?
Okataoka’s road to becoming the artist we know now wasn’t always straight. Often taking turns down the lesser travelled more interesting routes following personal curiosity until eventually arriving in Kagoshima; a city full of craftspeople.
Some artists find their creative road and stick to it until the very end. Others drive down many paths discovering new skills and new expressions. Both roads lead to similar destinations, knowing how you like to drive is the key. Okataoka and I both enjoy the winding journey taking us far and afield, discovering creative cultures around every corner. Early trips as a student opened Okataoka’s eyes to the carefree travellers passing through Thailand and Asia. Subsequent trips to India and Mexico inspired his own brushstrokes further.
Stopping at a red light we compared the signs of a typical Japanese street corner to those we’d both seen in India. We agree our everyday view for the most part lacked what I called “atmosphere” and Okataoka called “mood”. How for us, the hand-painted signs of India —mistakes and all— captured the natural warmth of a human touch that most computer generated signs cannot match. “Even if the owner of a shop painted his own sign having no artistic skill at all… I think I would still prefer it to what I see here now” we agreed.
Soon we picked up Takashi Shimizu waiting outside his design office, Judd. Taking our time to admire his —hat-shaped— Mercedes Benz sedan, before making our way to the mingei kissa Coffee-Kan.
The walls of the kissa were warmly decorated by the textile art of Samiro Yunoki, who also designed the shop sign. A disciple of Serizawa Keisuke, whose artwork also hung on the walls here and there too.
Ordering coffee and cake to further fuel our conversation, it was now 3pm. This is the artist’s way. Not tired by morning alarms or inconsequential schedules, but free to study and work on whatever interests us in our own carefree-time. To sit in atmospheric coffee shops having inspiring conversations about art, design, cars and craft.
Taking time to understand the nature of things before expressing an interpretation of the world through our work. Yes, there is always someone somewhere who’s in a rush for results, but it is possible to find your way. Okataoka has found his comfortable working environment in a city at the end of the country surrounded by an inspiring landscape and a supportive community.
We talk more about their project Highway – Driving With Craft. Uniting their fascination with interesting cars with interesting designs and craftspeople from not only in Kagoshima, but across Japan. An admittedly niche business, each item taking time because they want to take time designing while connecting with friends. Creating thoughtful objects such as a ceramic Car Flower Vase and a Wooden Air Freshener respectively fired and dyed using the ash from Sakurajima.
This natural —nonbiri— way of working is supported by the warmth of a community and the natural material and crafts made with human hands. The atmosphere or mood we speak of is present in Okataoka’s work. It was this feeling that first drew me to his work several years ago, but couldn’t quite put my finger on why I was attracted to it until now.
After spending the day with Okataoka (and friends) I finally made the connection and felt connected. Artists sharing a curiosity for hand painted signs from India, wood carvings from Mexico, folk art from Japan, cars with round headlights and Americana thrown in for good measure — and much much more .
“Not only me then” I thought watching the setting sun illuminate Sakurajima. Sometimes it takes a book, sculpture or a conversation to remind that you’re not the only person with a Paul McCartney beard and you do have permission to live and work exactly the way you want. So what does success look like to Okataoka? “Being blessed with good friends.”
With gas tank empty and my brain & heart full, I left Kagoshima feeling blessed.
And so it goes…
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