Edible gems found in the heart of nature
Hokkaido — a sprawling vista of majestic nature that continues to leave visitors awestruck. In the winter, it transforms into a white wonderland, drawing avid adventurers from across the globe, all chasing the pristine, unrivaled powder snow. Stuart, too, has visited Hokkaido several times in winter to enjoy his favorite pastime, snowboarding. Yet, it’s his latest venture amidst the green landscapes of a snowless Hokkaido that has unveiled a different kind of magic. Stuart recounts this journey marked by profound cultural immersion and meaningful human connections. Follow us on a recap of his wonders and discoveries over two enchanting weeks across Hokkaido.
The journey commenced at Rishiri Island, Japan’s northernmost national park. Here, Stuart discovered the island’s culinary treasures: Rishiri kombu, renowned as the finest of its kind for its rich mineral content, as well as the exquisite local uni (sea urchin) nourished by this kelp. Led by Kammui guide Tamaki Yamazawa, Stuart learned about the changes that have happened in Hokkaido’s seas and the sustainable initiatives being implemented. The adventure continued with a hike up Mt. Kurodake in the Daisetsuzan mountain range, followed by a tour of the Shiretoko Peninsula, and a hunt for oysters in Akkeshi, where he even participated in a traditional village festival.
Canoeing on Kushiro Lake at sunrise and witnessing nature awaken proved to be a most enchanting and memorable experience for Stuart. While drifting through mesmerizing landscapes he encountered wildlife such as bald eagles, egrets, and families of deer. Returning to land, he soaked in the milky sulfur hot springs before setting up camp in the Tokachi forest, feeling fully recharged. Here, Stuart met another inspiring figure, a young female hunter he refers to as “Maya the Deerhunter”. Originally a Michelin Guide food writer, she obtained her Matagi (traditional Japanese hunter) license three years ago. Stuart was most surprised to learn that in Japan, unlike in the United States, hunters can provide game meat to restaurants, despite the deep-rooted tradition of hunting in both countries. Maya promised to send some locally caught Yezo shika deer for the dinner Stuart planned to host at the end of his journey.
Discovering Japanese-style Anchovies at the Hakodate Market
Driving about seven hours to Hakodate in search of fish for his dinner menu, Stuart found himself in a scene reminiscent of his California restaurant’s seaside bounty. At the crack of dawn, Hakodate’s market brimmed with the day’s fresh catch. Stuart successfully bid on a sizable, roughly 4-5 kilogram flounder. While pondering culinary creations for his prize, a small fish resting in a case in a corner of the market caught his eye: katakuchi iwashi, or Japanese anchovy.
Stuarts newest and smallest restaurant Anchovy Bar was born from a desire to creatively utilize the abundant yet underappreciated fresh anchovies of the San Francisco Bay, which are often only used as bait. Little did he expect to encounter his beloved anchovies so far from California, in the markets of Hakodate. Without hesitation, Stuart purchased the Japanese anchovies and began preparing them alongside a seasoned, silver-haired fishmonger at a table beside the market. Knowing the essence of good anchovies lies in their freshness, he had a stroke of inspiration to bottle these Japanese anchovies, caught not even two hours earlier.
Stuart’s culinary journey took another exciting turn with the arrival of another local fisher market worker, this time a youngman, bearing salted fish known as Chika — a type of smelt commonly served as fried fish. After curing them for 30 days in salt, he skinned and then preserved them in oil, much like canned anchovies. Moved by this display of enterprising spirit and culinary ingenuity, Stuart found new inspiration for his menu.
Gathering for Dinner in Niseko
As the journey neared its end, the day following Hakodate was marked by a cycling tour in Yoichi, alongside Kammui guide and photographer Yoichi Watanabe. Stuart visited the cutting-edge wineries of DOMAINE MONT, LOWBROW CRAFT, and Domain Takahiko. Navigating the narrow, labyrinth-like paths of the wineries on his bike, Stuart spoke about how he felt an exhilarating sense of something new burgeoning from this land, bursting with potential, much like its grapes.
His encounter with Takahiko Soga, owner of Domain Takahiko, and his philosophy for making wine was impactful. “His philosophy is simple yet profound,” Stuart conveys excitedly, impressed with Soga’s methods. “He believes the essence of umami, a driving force in his approach, is present not just in kombu and dashi which are at the forefront of Japanese cuisine, but also in the traditional Japanese fermentation process, like tsukemono and more. Plus, he says that umami is found in the air, rain, and in the soil that nurtures the grapes. Minerals are a key element in Western vineyards, but the volcanic soil here doesn’t have any. Soga grows Pinot Noir in this mineral-free land, creating wines brimming with umami. Wine is nurtured by its natural environment – that’s the essence of ‘terroir.’”
To cap off this inspiration-filled journey through Hokkaido, Stuart hosted a dinner in Niseko, conceptualized from the insights he had gathered. Each ingredient brought its own story — the nature of its land, the people involved, sustainability of the environment, and various methods of production and preservation. Stuart interpreted and wove these stories into a series of beautiful and powerful dishes, shared and savored by all those gathered, a celebration of taste and joy.
Having tasted a myriad of flavors, enjoyed thrilling activities in the majesty of vast landscapes, and exchanged warm handshakes with the locals, Stuart’s journey was nothing short of transformative. Hokkaido, in its vibrant, unforgettable beauty, had etched itself as a second home in his heart. Without a doubt, Stuart will return soon, snow or no snow, drawn by the promise of new encounters and heartwarming discoveries.
Kammui
Kammui, is a platform for premium curated nature based experiences, partnering with some of the country’s leading guides and operators. With a mission to facilitate access to Japan’s hidden natural wonders, they cater to a variety of needs, including custom-made tours like the food and outdoor trip featured in this article. Chef Stuart made a return visit to Hokkaido at the end of January this year, joining Kammui for an exclusive experience in Niseko with Kammui combining the fun of food and outdoor activities. This Spring, Kammui will be launching their new series “Kammui Adventures,” featuring their journey around Hokkaido with Chef Stuart in their flagship episode. Be sure to check out even more thrilling and premium adventures to come.