A late winter dawn. I keep strictly to the speed limit down the Odawara-Atsugi Road, which is inexplicably thick with police. As the sky turns a faint orange, I pull into the Hiratsuka service area. The weekday parking lot holds nothing but commercial trucks. Only my Jimny Sierra, privy to the journey, seems to be grinning.
Unusually for a service area, they roast coffee beans on-site. Choosing a cup from the various beans to match the morning’s mood is part of the pleasure. Behind large glass windows, hands busily shape both bread and rice balls. With one large rice ball, two pastries for later, and a cup filled to the brim with coffee, I am ready for Yugawara.
A little further and the ocean appears. Orange light cuts through the fading night, shimmering across the water. Following the coastal road, Yugawara is just ahead.
Picking up my friend at Yugawara Station, we head toward Makuyama Park. It is just an hour and a half from Tokyo on the Tokaido Line, and this easy proximity adds to Yugawara’s charm.
En route, we grab two bags of mikan for 200 yen. One for a snack between climbs, the other a souvenir. Buying local treats before even reaching the rock is all part of the experience here.
Arriving at Makuyama Park around 8:00 a.m., a few cars are already parked. This spot is popular for hiking as well as climbing. The fact that the Hakone Tozan Bus runs straight from the station to the park entrance helps too.
We hike up the trail to the sounds of preparations for the annual Plum Blossom Festival, which starts every February. The park is home to about 4,000 plum trees that draw crowds during peak season. Thanks to this, the restrooms and trails are pristine and easy to navigate. To protect the trees, open flames are strictly forbidden. Such local rules are an important promise required to preserve the climbing area.
Reaching the rock face, we flake out the ropes and prepare. Yugawara has several lead climbing areas, and we have enjoyed a winter of climbing every single route from end to end at the Chigasaki Rock area, for no particular reason.
Ignoring grades, we just tick off the lines one by one, marking completed ones in red. The casual pace feels right, and the simple satisfaction keeps us coming back this winter.
The rock is andesite. It is textured and has high friction, yet the grain is not sharp enough to hurt your fingers. Best of all, its proximity to the Izu Peninsula coast keeps it warm even in winter. In the sun, a long-sleeve T-shirt and a light jacket are all you need to climb without freezing.
Since some of my friends living abroad were back in Japan for a short visit, we chose Yugawara as our winter getaway.
We begin warming up, each choosing a route. Finishing the climb, I turn around with a sense of freedom and spot Izu Oshima island on the ocean. The rock in Yugawara really is that close to the sea.
Once warm, we session the same route. Different body types mean different movements, even on the same line. Watching these variations to find my own solution is part of the fun. As we take turns trying different sequences, I fall at the crux, unable to move past it. The height, combined with the dialogue between belayer and climber, creates a tension unique to rope climbing. Swapping advice over mikan, I keep searching for my own way through the move.
The impatient winter sun sinks fast, leaving me behind as I work through the movements again and again. Leaving tomorrow’s homework on the wall, we hike down the trail. I drop my bags at a favorite inn found this winter, savor local fish sushi, and soak in Yugawara’s famous hot springs. The exhaustion of a full day’s play slowly melts away.
Back at the inn, I have a quick drink and lie on the futon, repeating the failed movements over and over in my head. Soon, my friends’ snoring begins. Wrapped in the steady rhythm of their breathing and the quiet image of the route expanding in my mind, I think I might not sleep. The next moment, I open my eyes to find the room already filled with the faint light of morning.
Stretching while watching the sun rise over the ocean, I build up the focus to go reclaim yesterday’s homework. I must remember to buy more mikan on the way, having already finished both bags. Morning in Yugawara feels incredible.
