Bike Packing Weekend
Finding fat bike nirvana in mid-winter Hokkaido!

Cycling atop a lake surface in a national park

Located on the northern edge of the Tokachi Plain in Hokkaido, Kamishihoro is a rural town in the heart of nature of which 70% is forest. Sitting at the eastern foot of Daisetsuzan National Park, it draws in hikers in their droves as a trailhead in the mountainous region. And now, Kamishiboro-cho is fast becoming known as a place for bicycle touring. The catalyst for this was the recognition of the “Tokapchi 400” cycle route through the town as a national cycle route. This 403-km-long route, which starts in Obihiro and winds through the Tokachi Plain in a figure-eight pattern, has attracted attention from all over Japan. The surrounding area has now become a bicycle environment, replete with rental bicycles and cycle stations. And then, fat biking on iced-over Lake Nukabira (with prior permission) was launched in 2022 as a winter activity.

Lake Nukabira has an area almost equivalent to the inside of the Yamanote Line and gets very lively in winter when the entire lake freezes over, allowing snowshoe hiking and wakasagi fishing on the lake. You can ride your fat bike on the lake and marvel at the Taushubetsu River Bridge and the ice bubbles that appear in the crystal-clear ice. For this article, we teamed up with local guide Hideaki Sagara for an ice biking tour of Lake Nukabira.

Following Sagara-san’s lead, we straddle our fat bikes and head down the snowy forest road to the lake. I thought that riding most snow-covered roads would be a breeze with 4-inch-wide spiked tires… but even on unpaved roads with about 15 centimeters of snow, the tires get stuck in the snow and do not move forward at all. Having broken a sweat pushing my bike uphill in -7°C, I finally made it to the main route. The snow-covered road, which had been trodden by the coming and going of anglers, was smooth riding akin to a dirt road with no snow cover, and was easy enough to keep pedaling.

The day was clear without a cloud in the sky, and we got a clear glimpse of both Mt.Nipesotsu, one of the “Ethereal 100 Mountains” surrounding the lake, as well as Mt.Upepesanke. First on our itinerary was the “Taushubetsu River Bridge”, a concrete bridge on the former Japanese National Railway. Standing alone in the snowfield against the azure sky, this arched bridge is a dramatic sight resembling the ruins of ancient Rome. The water level of the man-made Lake Nukabira changes depending on the amount of rainfall and power generation usage, meaning the bridge is usually completely submerged from early spring until around September. To see the bridge in its full glory, one should visit by fat bike during the winter season when the water level remains low and frozen.

After admiring the arched bridge, we tried our hand at ice fishing with Mitsuru Kawada, a guide from the Higashi Taisetsu Nature Guide Center. Lucas was more than happy to dangle a line in the ice fishing tent that had been prepared for him, and was even more delighted to find that he had in fact managed to hook a wakasagi. Apparently, they sometimes catch cherry salmon that are after the wakasagi, and the loud cheers emanating from the next-door tent after reeling in a big one were audible.

Kamishihoro’s goal: A community based on local production for local consumption

After cycling around Lake Nukabira, we explored the town of Kamishihoro. Kamishihoro is actually known for its progressive town planning, and is aiming for a sustainable community by introducing a series of unique measures such as renewable energy, drone delivery, and self-driving buses. It is said to be the only town in Hokkaido with an expanding population, and such initiatives may be the key to drawing in transplants.

One such transplant is Hajime Saito, who moved up from Tokyo and runs a spice shop called “Craft Kitchen” in the town. He launched his own brand, “Traveling Spice,” after connecting with a community of mothers raising children in this town. He is introducing a new food culture in the town by adding exotic flavors to Tokachi ingredients.

Another transplant is Shiki Hongo of Spice Box, which manages and operates “Nippou no Ie Kamishihoro,” a lodging facility prepared by the town to accommodate companies and individuals visiting from outside of Hokkaido. Attracted by the rich natural climate, they have also started working on offerings other than lodgings, such as a marché in partnership with producers and businesses in the town, and talk events to explore new ways of working.

Michi-no-Eki (roadside station) Kamishihiro allows visitors to check out the various efforts that are underway to promote the town’s attractions. The company that operates the facility, Karch Corporation, is also involved in the retail of electricity generated by livestock manure.

“Since dairy farming is thriving in this town, we thought we could contribute to the development of the community by creating jobs through resource-recycling energy while tackling the local manure problem. The town’s readiness for supporting such new challenges is what makes it so attractive,” explains Yosuke Akiyama of Karch.

Hiroshi Suzuki, aka “Gingaman,” is building a fat bike park for children in front of the roadside station facility. The town is promoting cycle tourism as part of its development strategy, and aspires to “expand ways to have fun in the national park through the zero-carbon vehicle, the bicycle” . Over the past four years it has successfully brought the Lake Nukabira Ice Bike Ride to fruition:

“Cycling on ice will be a portal to convey the charms of winter in Tokachi. We will take the time to develop the surrounding courses and stations to make Tokachi a destination that will delight many a cyclist.”

Sagara Hideaki
Born in Honbetsu-cho, Nakagawa County, Hokkaido. After a long career in the restaurant industry, he followed his bike touring hobby and became a bicycle guide. During his tours, he draws on his knowledge of coffee to propose rides and superb coffee experiences. From 2020 he has been the proprietor of the “Ice Bubble Cafe,” which will be open only in winter at Lake Nukabira and Gonosawa, while leading ice cycling tours.

For inquiries and applications for ice cycling tours, please contact via Instagram and/or E-mail.

NPO Higashi-Daisetsu Nature Guide Center
44-3, Nukabira Hot spring Resort, Kamishihoro Town, Kawato-gun, Hokkaido
TEL：01564-4-2261