Journeying panoramic Aso in late spring with the GMLVAN S-01

The five peaks surrounding Mt. Aso (Naka, Neko, Taka, Eboshi and Kishima), sit in the center of the world’s largest caldera, measuring 18 km from east to west and 25 km from north to south. The mountain range from east to west, which is also called the ‘Nirvana of Aso’ because of its resemblance to the image of Buddha lying on his back, and the crater plains and outer rim of the mountain are collectively called ‘Mount Aso’. Some 50,000 souls reside in the Mt.Aso crater field, which is home to a rich collection of springs, an ecosystem unique to Aso, and prairies that have existed for 1,000 years, preserving the unique lifestyle of this area. Aso is a very popular destination for van lifers and cyclists alike, with a series of ups and downs and some of the most superb scenery Kyushu has to offer. In particular, serious cyclists will be familiar with the 60-km “Aso-ichi,” which circles the five Aso peaks.

This tour took participants on a mountain bike ride with a customized Daihatsu GMLVAN S-01, based on a Daihatsu Hi-Zet Cargo, along a scenic road in Aso, centered on an area called Nangodani in the south side of the caldera. Guiding us around the area is local cyclist Kenmasa Yamauchi, a self-proclaimed “bicycle jack-of-all trades.” Based in Minamiaso Village, located at the southern foot of Mt. Aso, he is a local cyclist who offers a variety of ways to interact with bicycles for people of all ages. He has a track record as a professional rider in cross-country mountain bike competitions and runs “Cycle Pit Gururi,” which repairs and sells bicycles, while also offering local guided tours, bicycle-related events, and mountain bike classes for children. Our first port of call is “Mountain Bike Park Gururi”, an MTB course under construction near “Cycle Pit Gururi.” On weekends, the place is apparently teeming with children who enthusiastically circle the loop and try out jumps.

Our first port of call is “Mountain Bike Park Gururi”, an MTB course under construction near “Cycle Pit Gururi.” On weekends, the place is apparently teeming with children who enthusiastically circle the loop and try out jumps.

 “My first foray into bicycling was in competitions, but the real appeal of the sport is not winning or losing. The fun part is that you can find your own way to play using a bicycle as a tool, while connecting with nature. I want to help everyone from children to adults find their own way to play.”

He is also blessed with buddies who share his passion for bicycling. One kindred spirit is Yoshio Harada, who opened the cyclist-friendly guesthouse “Oyado Denkichi.”

 A 150-year-old old traditional Japanese house and rice warehouse, once owned by his great-grandfather, was converted into a lodging facility that opened recently. The hotel offers lavish hospitality, such as wood-burning baths and barbecue pits made of lava rock, in the hope that “cyclists visiting the area for the first time will feel it is a home away from home.” Close to a spring water source and the outer rim of the mountain, this is the perfect base from which to take in the natural beauty of Minami Aso.

Once ensconced in our lodgings, we loaded up the GMLVAN S-01 with two mountain bikes and headed straight out for a drive-and-ride. Crossing the tracks of the trolley train Minamiaso Railway, the trail heads north along the undulating Aso Panorama Line, passing by Aso Nakadake (Mt. Aso) and ascending all the way up to Mt.Daikanbo. The windy “Milk Road,” runs along the ridge line of the Aso Outer Rim, snaking through pastures and grasslands, with a series of gentle curves and ups and downs. Along the way are unobstructed views of the surrounding area, and several observation points. A quick pit stop afforded a panoramic view of the sea of clouds drifting in from the crater field below. Driving along leisurely, we saw a group of road cyclists decked out in cycle jerseys ahead of us. The sun rays were gentle, and the weather was warm and sunny. It was a perfect day for cycling and driving, and everyone on the road looked happy.

The Milk Road eventually branches off from the Yamanami Highway. Descending the outer rim of the mountain in one stroke, we reached National Route 265, which runs north-south along the eastern edge of the caldera. We then ascended the meandering Route 265 along the ridge of the outer rim of the mountain, with Mt.Neko-dake looming above. Our goal, the Hakoishi pass, was not far ahead.  

Viewed from Hakoishi Pass, the prefectural road running through the grasslands called  “Machikoga Bokuya” resembles the Great Wall of China. We decided to park the van and take off on a bike ride around the area. These “Bokuya” pastures are areas for grazing and foraging, and have been protected for 1,000 years by people burning fields and herding livestock. Even today, local associations maintain the area by grazing, burning and gathering grass. In order to preserve this environment for future generations, they are committed to passing down farming techniques such as grass piling (a method of drying grass cut in the fall, gathering it into bundles, and stacking them for preservation) and camping in the grass, as well as growing vegetables using wild grass compost. Some of the pastures are said to be places where visitors enjoy biking and hiking with expert guides.

After descending from Hakoseki Pass to Takamori Town, we stopped at the Minami Aso Visitor Center upon Yamauchi-san’s recommendation. The facility uses dioramas and panels to introduce the environment of the Aso region, including its volcanoes, grasslands, and water sources, as well as what local people are involved in. The unique storytelling of Ichiro Hashimoto is guaranteed to draw you in. Don’t miss the experiments where he uses everyday tools to unravel the origins of the caldera! The Visitor Center is also home to the Aso wildflower garden, a 5-hectare site where you can feast your eyes on some 600 species of Aso grasses and flowers bloom and 60 species of wild birds soaring high. The highlight here is the Hanashinobu, an endemic species that grows wild only in the Aso region. This wildflower, which is classified as an endangered species, is protected and nurtured while gathering seeds. In June, its blooming pretty purple flowers add vibrancy to the garden.

In the town of Takamori, also known as “Oku-Aso,” the local specialty of “Takamori Dengaku,” is not to be missed. ”Dengaku” is a local delicacy of taro, yam, konnyaku, and other mountain delicacies, grilled over charcoal in a sunken hearth and flavored with a secret homemade miso paste. It is thought that it was brought from Kyoto or Izumo some 250 years ago and has since been passed down through the generations by Takamori’s farmers. At Takamori Dengaku Village,  we savor these delicious slow-roasted, hot skewers. The sound of the crackling charcoal fire is music to the ears, and the aroma of the charred miso is tantalizing! Stop by after your ride having worked up an appetite.

The second half of the tour takes us through the water springs in the Nangodani area from Takamorimachi to Minamiaso Village and the gravel surrounding the area. Minamiaso Village is bustling with cyclists and offers many fun side-trips that are worth leaving time in your schedule for.

For example, “Chamitsulle Bakes & Herbs” is a popular spot where locals and tourists alike line up for homemade herbal tea and baked treats. Proprietors Shiho and Hiroaki Eto brew teas from herbs that he grows organically, while Shiho creates baked sweets that use seasonal ingredients. “Minami Aso boasts clean water and soil suited to herb cultivation,” he explains. He aims to establish a lifestyle with herbs grown in such a climate in Aso, and serves them along with rich-flavored baked treats.

During the ride, we popped into 310Books, a book café located on the premises of “Roadside Station Asobono Sato Kugino.” The café is run by Kei and Keni’chi Sato, a couple Yamauchi-san met through their bicycle connection. The former Tokyo-ites found the stamina to ride between Tokyo and Kumamoto on a bicycle trip looking for a place to settle, which surprisingly turned out to be their honeymoon. There were no bookstores in the Aso area, which they picked as their new home. So, the two former bookstore employees、 who “love going to bookstores,” loaded their light van with books and started a mobile bookstore. Two years ago, they finally set up a physical store. This space, lined with books in genres that interest the two, has the ambience of a private library and is a great place to take five.  Shoot the breeze with a cup of coffee and a good discussion about bicycles.

Aso is the envy of cyclists from all over the world, with its spectacular scenery, outstanding nature and local flavors, and welcoming bicycle community.Van life with bicycles is the perfect way to enjoy Aso in all directions. Load your mountain bike into your trusty van and you’ll have the best trip of your life.