Zip through the aura of the Onomichi cityscape and head for the port. Board the ferry for Mukaishima, the island on the other side, followed by a group of junior and senior high schoolers on their way home from sports practice. The uniformed pupils pedal on and off the boat every morning and evening. The sight is one of the highlights of Onomichi.
On board the ferry, the pupils send curious looks in our direction. We hear them whispering: Is that a bicycle? With no pedals and no chain? It’s got to be a motorbike, right? They seem to be intrigued by the near-futuristic design too. As soon as the ferry has made its short trip from Onomichi to Mukaishima, we hit the accelertor and speed away. Our bike is nearly silent. We leave the pupils looking on in wonder amid the sound of the waves.
Our travel buddy is the Makka Range electric moped from the Swedish maker CAKE. Available in two smart colors, white and gray, it weighs 70 kilograms and has a top speed of 30 km/h and a range of 66 kilometers on a single charge. And it only requires a moped license. The minimal two-wheeler is perfect for everyday riding on the city streets.
Shimanami Kaido is best known as a bicycle route. Pedaling the 70-kilometer-long road across the Seto Inland Sea is every cyclist’s dream. The sense of togetherness with the sea breeze and the surrounding mountains feels amazing for sure. But the islands’ attractions aren’t always located along the road, and it’s a waste to let fatigue keep you from making stopovers. With the Makka Range, it’s easy to access those special spots that are worth a detour.
The Makka Range isn’t just ideal for narrow rural streets. It’s also powerful for climbing up hills and slopes. The Shimanami Kaido continues from Mukaishima to Innoshima and to Ikuchijima. The road dips from the bridge to coast level when entering one island, and rises again to bridge height when leaving for the next island, making the trip by bicycle a test of strength. The e-motorbike saves us time and physical strength, so we can afford to make a stopover and look for micro-adventures.
Ikuchijima is home to Setoda, the hippest area in the Seto Inland Sea and a great place to plan an overnight stay. The community hub is the complex Soil Setoda. Check out Overview Coffee, a roaster prioritizing environmental stewardship and regenerative agriculture, and operating in a space renovated from a 140-year-old salt warehouse; Minatoya, a restaurant serving dishes of local produce cooked over a hearth; and Yubune, a stylish bathhouse that comes complete with a sauna.
After we’ve taken a break, quenched our appetite, and washed away the sweat from our trip thus far, let’s return to our room booked at Soil Setoda. The Makka Range can be charged with a 100V power outlet, that is, the same indoor outlet for charging a smartphone. That’s another reason the e-motorbike makes such a perfect travel buddy.
The silence of the early hours is another pleasure of Setoda. The sound of the waves, of the birdsong, of the boats—none of this should be disturbed by the noise of a bike engine. Let’s leave quietly on the Makka Range so as not to wake the community. The Kone Ohashi Bridge is painted an inviting bright yellow. The ramp up may be a hassle by bicycle, but it’s a welcome feature by e-motorbike.
The Shimanami Kaido extends from Ikuchijima to Omishima, Hakatajima, and Oshima. On Omishima, visit the Oyamazumi Shrine home to a 2,600-year-old camphor tree. The deities of the mountain, the sea, and navigation enshrined here promise to help make our journey a success. Close by is the the shop of Omishima Minnano Winery, founded by world-class architect Toyo Ito. Let’s pick up some wine made with grapes grown on the island.
Shopping for gifts brings our journey to a close. For the finale, let’s visit the Kirosan Observatory Park at 301.1 meters above sea level, on Oshima. In the golden hour as the sun sets in the Seto Inland Sea, watch the boundary disappear between the sky and the water. Then ride the Makka Range down the slope, quietly and lightly, blending into the magical cluster of islands.
