Pause the pedals and take a breather.
A Southern Kii trip made for wandering off the path

A Kinan cycling odyssey where the divine seems to dwell.

Riding along with the Kumano Sea at our side, we powered up a gentle incline. Just before a curve, a few drops of rain fell before suddenly turning into a fierce downpour whipped by strong gusts. Before we could even put on our rain jackets, we were soaked.

“The summer skies here change in a flash because of the currents and terrain!” my buddy shouted over the wind. Glancing at a nearby bus stop, we saw the name: Amashima (‘rain island’) No wonder!

Hot on the wheels of our Wakayama cycling journey in issue 66, the second leg takes us from Koza Station at the mouth of the crystal-clear Koza River to Tanabe, famed for its plums. The distance is short, but the route is relentless, with sawtooth-like climbs and drops that keep you on your toes.

Our guide is Tsuyoshi Nishimura, who runs the bike shop WHEEL ACTION in Shingū and also works as a frame builder for his own brand, HEYM8 CYCLE. Born and raised in Shingū. Nishimura describes the Kinan region as a place where unique people and local quirks make wandering off the path part of the adventure, making it perfect for a cycling trip.

The Kinan area, historically known as Muro District, is said to mean “room of the gods” or “where the divine dwells.” The mountains, long believed to shelter the gods, gave rise to a distinctive local culture, philosophy, and craft, flowing down rivers to the sea and beyond. At the same time, carried by the Kuroshio Current, outside influences arrived early, and Kinan flourished as a maritime hub. Secluded yet open, inward yet outward—this intriguing duality may explain the region’s unique depth.

A place that embodies this balance is the small village of Tanami, home to the remarkable Tanami Theater. Its crisp white plank walls enclose a space that constantly transforms: sometimes a cinema, sometimes a café, sometimes an art studio. Contemporary artists Noriaki Hayashi and Sumire, who moved from Tokyo, revived the beloved local theater, giving it new life while honoring its history.

Hayashi explained: “We stumbled on it while looking for an atelier. Back then, it was half-ruined and overgrown with ivy. When we learned it had been built just after the war and loved by the village for decades, we knew we had to preserve it and share it with both the next generation and newcomers.”

They spent four years lovingly restoring it by hand. Today, it hosts monthly film screenings and occasional live performances. Protected by locals and newcomers, the theater has become a community symbol and a stage for creativity.

“We hope the spirit of Kinan and its culture can flourish here, and that we can grow alongside the building,” Hayashi added.

From a glamping stay to an Umeshu bar

We set up for the night at In the Outdoor Shirahama Shihara Coast, a glamping site within the designated national park. The tents rise three meters above wooden decks, complete with a sauna, bonfire, and barbecue ready for a hands-free feast.

Ideal for a bike-packing trip with minimal luggage and maximum fun. At the adjoining Kanata Cove, we explored the tidal pools, and from the sauna’s hidden lookout, took in the dramatic rock formations carved along the coast.

The next morning, we stopped by Torige Cave, visible only at low tide, before making our way to Shirahama. Along the way, we detoured to K-gata Chocolate Company, a bean-to-bar chocolate shop. Everything is done in-house, from roasting and grinding the cacao to crafting the final tablets.

“All we use is cacao and sugar,” explained owner Shogo Shima. “Each origin and variety has its own character, so we put real care into the tasting experience.” Watching cacao transform into chocolate in the workshop, we sipped a chocolate drink that was nothing short of exceptional.

We cruised through Shirahama into Tanabe, a region known for its citrus and ume plums. Our goal was Kii-Tanabe Station on the Kisei Line, but just outside we stopped at tanabe en+, famed for must-have souvenirs. The shop is packed with local produce, sweets, drinks, and processed foods, yet the standout is umeboshi, salt-cured Japanese plums.

Sampling sixteen varieties makes it clear why Tanabe is Japan’s plum capital; the city even has an ordinance exhorting toasts with plum wine, so naturally we joined in.

“If you’re after umeshu, there’s a plum wine bar just across the street,” we were told, so we headed to Umeko. A cheerful curtain painted with “Umeko-chan” ushered us inside, where a neon sign saying “we love umeshu” glowed above a back bar boasting 144 plum wines. The star is the plum wine flight, each set chosen to showcase differences in aroma, color, and age. Every pour reveals its own character, making tasting a true delight.

Only in Wakayama, where cycle trains run, can you so easily swing by a bar after a ride. We aimed to drink until the last train, only to find they closed at 7 p.m. Walking back to the station, we felt delightfully light on our feet, no doubt thanks to the plum wine.

Tsuyoshi Nishimura
Tsuyoshi Nishimura was born in Shingū, Wakayama Prefecture. After training at a bike shop in Sakai, Osaka, he returned home to open WHEEL ACTION near Shingū Station. Once a hard-core rider tackling tough routes, he has since embraced a more leisurely style, welcoming detours along the way. He now also works as a frame builder for his own brand, HEYM8 CYCLE.