Right in the middle of the Japanese archipelago, Toyama is one of four prefectures that make up Hokuriku. Its sprawling plain appears to embrace the Sea of Japan, surrounded by imposing mountains. Some say this landscape accounts for the name of the Prefecture (Bountiful Mountains.)
Lucky enough to command a view of the delights of Toyama Prefecture is Megumi Kawakami, the agricultural and livestock farmer behind “doyuuno”. Having taken over the reins from her parents, she is now busy not just in the fields but also as a manager.
What drove her to take on doyuuno, and how exactly does she fill her days? And what message does she have for society? We went down to hear it straight from the horse’s mouth.
A foray into farming spurred by an awakening to the plentiful Satoyama
Megumi-san was born and raised in a settlement called “Do” where doyuuno’s agricultural plots are located. It all goes back to 1974 when her parents relocated here to join an environmental movement opposed to the use of harmful pesticides in the newly planted forests.
As a child, Megumi-san had no interest in taking on the family business. It wasn’t until university took her to Tokyo that she had a change of heart. “While I loved the conveniences and fun of Tokyo, at the same time I longed for how Toyama made me feel.”
At that point, Megumi-san’s mind turned to the Satoyama (undeveloped woodland near populated area) where one can appreciate the changing seasons and live up close to the various insects and animals. She was apparently able to re-appreciate the value inherent in the Satoyama by placing some physical and mental distance from Mother Nature.
“Satoyama tend to be negatively associated with sparsely populated backwater towns, but if you change your perspective, they are pretty awesome locations. Looking to the future, given that Satoyama account for 40% of Japan’s landmass, we simply can’t rule them out. I also believe it is important to judge what is in front of you not only based on current social norms, but also with an eye on what will be prioritized by future generations.”
Her partner, Takayuki-san, also shared her vision, and took up farming. He is now leading recent activities at doyuuno.
Rice is fed to the chickens, and their waste is returned to the paddies.
Activities at doyuuno range from rice cultivation to free-range chicken rearing. Megumi-san explains: “Although we do lots of things, the point about doyuuno is that each element is organically intertwined.”
For example, doyuuno is cultivating rice over approximately 30 hectares of terraces as well as the paddies at the foot of the mountain. About two thirds of the rice is shipped for consumption, while the rest they ferment and feed to the ducks that eat the weeds and pests as well as to the chickens in the coop.
“The fermenting agent is the soil bacteria found in the forest leaves. Our circular farming is made possible by borrowing the power of the bacteria that flourish in the nearby woodlands.”
Megumi-san speaks highly of the ducks and fowl – “they underpin our existence here. They are vital to our agriculture, so we insist on feeding them properly.”
Incidentally, farmers raising chickens generally rely on feed imported from overseas. This is because growing the grains for making the feed takes time and money. That doyuuno makes its own feed in spite of this truth speaks to their decidedly uncompromising approach.
Similarly, the policy of raising the chickens free range and not in cages is all about their well-being. “We believe that letting them run free is much better than keeping them in cages as they produce such delicious eggs.”
At doyuuno, they render the chicken’s waste into fertilizer to be scattered on the paddies. This is to ensure that all organic matter is not wasted and put to efficient use.
This no-waste ethos also extends to the lives of the animals. Ducks that have reached the end of their duties in the paddies and chickens that have laid their last eggs are turned into meat and delivered to chefs and consumers, ensuring that the circle of life is maintained.
“The ducks and chickens reared at doyuuno get a lot of exercise, so the meat is nice and sinewy. This juicy texture is not found in other meats so you could say it’s our specialty.”
These are just some of the many initiatives being implemented at doyuuno. The rice and eggs also provide the raw materials to puddings, cookies and chiffon cakes.
Keeping on top of the many tasks at doyuuno must require a gargantuan effort. How does Megumi-san manage it?
“Toyama summers are punishing, making outdoor work very tough. I love AIGLE products both for their comfort and functionality. This long sleeve t-shirt feels nice on the skin and also protects it from the midday sun which stops me feeling exhausted after work. When it comes to farm work in the summer, overall it makes more sense to wear long sleeves.
Also, AIGLE boots are made from a soft rubber that provides great maneuverability without getting all stuffy inside. By optimizing our workwear, us and the rest of the crew at doyuuno are able to work hard without burning ourselves out.”
“This waist pouch is both stylish and functional. It’s essential for working and when I am out on deliveries.” (Megumi-san)
The ideal state of agriculture advocated by doyuuno is: “Farming by forging bonds between people and Mother Earth.”
To make this a reality, they practice “recycle-based livestock farming method.” While it is difficult to sum up in a few words, put simply it involves doing both agriculture and livestock while circulating resources.
Megumi-san gives the following reasons for using this approach: “Doyuuno is the result of us seeing how far we can take the idea of not wasting any resources. Agriculture at doyuuno spans seed planting all the way to the dinner table. We also want to inspire others to appreciate a lifestyle amidst all the living things, and the circle of life.”
What does it mean to genuinely live sustainably?
Doyuuno which is devoted to the circulation of resources, and Megumi-san who puts it into practice. Finally, how does she believe we can go about creating a lifestyle in harmony with nature?
“None of us are on this planet alone. It is surely important for us to try living by feeling the links between people, nature and life. Satoyama are places hewn by nature, and can’t be made by human hands at all. These places have been left for us by our ancestors. This is why we can live here today.
No matter how much people might say they have no value, if you take a closer look at the possibilities then your evaluation of Satoyama is bound to change. I’m convinced that connecting what was left to us into the future is what will really pave the way for a sustainable lifestyle in symbiosis with nature.”
Megumi Kawakami
Following her early years in the Satoyama and 5 years living in the city, became keenly aware of the necessity, importance, and fulfilling potential of the job in Japanese society of “agriculture in the Satoyama”, and is now running the gamut of planting to harvesting to delivery. Dedicated to utilizing Japan’s resources inherent in Satoyama, she runs hands-on agriculture experiences and training courses as a farmer who connects up the circle of life.
https://doyuuno.net/
