{"id":47724,"date":"2021-08-20T13:20:13","date_gmt":"2021-08-20T04:20:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/?p=47724"},"modified":"2021-09-07T11:01:19","modified_gmt":"2021-09-07T02:01:19","slug":"old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/","title":{"rendered":"Old Japanese Highway
“Nakamichi Oukan”"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Why Tuna is so beloved in landlocked Yamanashi<\/strong>

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In landlocked Yamanashi, locals are particularly attached to Maguro (tuna). Yamanashi is the second largest consumer of Maguro in Japan and it\u2019s in first place in terms of the ratio of sushi joints per capita. The roots of this love for tuna can be traced all the way back to the Edo Period. Back then, tuna landed in Suruga Bay and were slung onto horseback and then conveyed from the post town of Yoshiwara (currently Fujinomiya City in Shizuoka Prefecture) along the T\u014dkaid\u014d road, taking the shortest route possible to arrive in the sushi stores of Kofu by the following dawn. That shortest possible route is the Nakamichi Oukan.  <\/em>This road \u2013 which could be fairly described as having kept the people of Yamanashi satiated \u2013 was used as a military road since the Genpei War at the end of the 12th<\/sup> Century, and during the Warring States period was also used by the likes of Takeda Shingen, Oda Nobunaga, and Tokugawa Ieyasu. Into the Edo period, the road was frequented by travelers and merchants and became a transportation route for seafood landed in Suruga Bay, hence the nicknames of \u201cthe fish road\u201d and the \u201csalt road\u201d. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s time to follow in the footsteps of all the tuna carried up from Suruga Bay, and to get stuck into some jumbo-sized tuna nigirizushi in K\u014dfu! United in this ambition at the starting point of Yoshiwara are Kounousuke Ishikawa, the owner of Koshu outdoor shop owner \u201cSUNDAY<\/a>\u201d, and Belgian-born Papersky Japan Stories web designer Silas Vidar. Ishikawa-san will navigate the 80km journey to Kofu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The first port of call is the Fujinomiya City Museum. Curator Mr. Watai fills us in on the link between Fujinomiya City and the Nakamichi Oukan.<\/em> \u201cIn the background to the road linking Suruga in Kai is the religious worship of Mt.Fuji and the existence of the Fuji-ko sect, an Edo-period Shinto sect dedicated to the worship of Mt.Fuji. As well as the Fujisan Hong\u016b Sengen Taisha, along the Nakamichi Oukan you will also find the Fuji Gozan, which are five influential temples of the Nichiren school of Buddhism. There is also the Hitoana Fujiko Ruins near the highway where Fujiko founder Hasegawa Kakugyo is said to have undergone religious training. The fact that so many people passed along the Nakamichi Oukan on their way to Mt.Fuji suggests that it was also a road of creed.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sengen Taisha in Fujinomiya is the head shrine of all Sengen Shrines across Japan. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Mr. Watai kindly shows us the old Nakamichi Oukan <\/em>road as well as the site of the \u201cFuji no Makigari\u201d, a grand hunting event arranged by shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo around the foot of Mt.Fuji, and the famous Kariyado no Gebazakura cherry tree. Looming beyond is the \u201cShiraito Falls\u201d down which cascades water welling up from the foot of Mt.Fuji. At last, the road has reached the edge of the lake. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

On day 1, we kill some time at \u201cMatsu Kaze\u201d, a restaurant by Lake Motosu serving wild game. Owner Masahiro Takiguchi is a hunter who also runs the town\u2019s deer meat processing plant. Having scoured every local trail including the animal trails, he is a fount of historical knowledge regarding the old road and recounts various episodes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lake Motosu finally comes into view. The goal for day 1 is not far away.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On Day 2, we depart from the Lake Shoji guesthouse village where we spent the previous night.  The highlight of this day was the town of Ubaguchi, and were lucky to be guided by Mr. Sasaki and Mr. Watanabe of the \u201cUbaguchi Historical and Cultural Promotion Council\u201d. After paying our respects to the \u201cShoji Cedar\u201d, a natural monument, and at Shoji Suwa Shrine, the 7 of us set off on our way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A welcome break over a cup of coffee in downtown Kofu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The foremost post town on the highway is a village of literature<\/strong>

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Leaving the roadway at the remains of the Furusekimachi checkpoint, we head towards Ubaguchi pass. Along the road are numerous stone Buddhist images, including horse-headed Kannon and thousand-armed Kannon that were placed to pray for the safe passage of travelers. There is a memorial tower which was probably a signpost back in the day. The little stone images are engraved with individual names and religious associations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Walking straight ahead brings us to Ubaguchi pass which affords a view of the Kofu basin, after which we descend to the post town of Ubaguchi (currently Ubaguchi Town). While it already had the trappings of a post town from the Warring States period, the town was subsequently established by Tokugawa Ieyasu for the coming and going of Oda Nobunaga. It was said to have been conferred special privileges by Ieyasu during the Tensh\u014d era, and the elegance of the Edo period is still evident in buildings such as the \u201cTreasure Storehouse\u201d which bears the red-sealed shogunate license and Tokugawa family crest on its roof tiles. This is indeed the birthplace of tanka <\/em>poet Houdai Yamazaki, known as the \u201chomesick poet\u201d, and there are plaques honoring him around the town. His many poems about familiar scenes are written in colloquial speech with a touch of aloofness, and the humor and solitude are meaningful and heartrending in equal measure. Sasaki-san and Watanabe-san eloquently recite one poem each. Poetry seems to be part of the woodwork of this town. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Praying for safe passage to the Jiz\u014d warding off evil in Ubaguchi post-town<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On Day 3, we depart the nearby \u201cUbaguchi no Sato<\/em>\u201d and head for the site of Kofu Castle, today\u2019s goal. We make a stop at the legendary \u201cMinayo\u201d, a simmered abalone restaurant in business for 400 years. This is a local delight created by the Nakamichi Oukan.  <\/em>Soy sauce casks stuffed with abalone and bamboo grass were loaded onto horseback, and gently heated by the horse\u2019s body temperature. By the time they arrived in Kofu, the taste was supposed to be perfect. Minayo still uses such traditional preparation methods, insisting on black abalone from the nearest coastal waters, drawing in hordes of Kofu locals. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
11th<\/sup> generation proprieter Akira Iijima (left) and 12th<\/sup> generation Nao-san of \u201cMinayo\u201d<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The post town of Ubaguchi is full of storehouses and traditional dwellings of yester-year.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Having worked up a hunger, we at last can tuck into the famed Koshu Sushi at the Uoso Nakamichi Branch. Maguro is of course the centerpiece. The proprieter explains: \u201cThese were often eaten during lunchtime by farm workers, so they were deliberately made extra-large and coated with a sweet sauce to preserve them longer. It was a masterstroke by our predecessors to make raw fish a little tastier and to preserve it a little longer.\u201d  We bite into the over-sized nigirizushi<\/em>, casting our minds back over the 80km covered from Tsuruga to here. For these famished pilgrims, the fatty and succulent tuna goes down our throats as a trickly treat. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Koshu Sushi of \u201cUoso\u201d – jumbo-sized nigirzushi coated with a soy marinade<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n




Trail Guide<\/strong><\/h5>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Fujinomiya City Local Museum
14-2 Miyacho,
Fujinomiya-shi, Shizuoka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"
Matsukaze
120-1 Motosu Fujikawaguchiko-machi,
Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Gakushinsou
514-48 Shoji Fujikawaguchiko-machi,
Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Ubaguchi no sato
1132 Nakabatakecho,
Kofu-shi, Yamanashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Minayo
3-11-20 Chuo,
Kofu-shi, Yamanashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"\"<\/a>
Uosou Nakamichibunten
2920-3 Kamisonecho,
Kofu-shi, Yamanashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ever come across \u201cKoshu Sushi\u201d? These jumbo-sized sushi\u2019s coated in a sweet marinade are nearly twice as big as normal. The fact that these exist today is in no small part thanks to the Nakamichi Oukan, an old thoroughfare linking Kai and Suruga (currently Yamanashi and Shizuoka Prefectures). We are walking from Yoshiwara in Shizuoka all the way to K\u014dfu in Yamanashi, in search of this celebrated \u201cKoshu Sushi\u201d. Sushi with abalone, the \u201cMaguro Road\u201d promises mouthwatering marine and mountain morsels!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":47754,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"{title}\n\n{excerpt}\n\n{url}","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[119,118],"tags":[2784,3349,3345,3344,1391,303,3348,3347,304,3340,3339,1392,3342,3031,2944,3343,1286],"place":[85,238],"writer":[],"class_list":["post-47724","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-local-guides-en","category-hike-and-bike-en","tag-issue-64-en","tag-kofu","tag-maguro-road","tag-nakamichi-oukan","tag-old-japanese-highway-en","tag-shizuoka-2","tag-tuna","tag-ubaguchi","tag-yamanashi-2","tag--en","place-yamanashi-en","place-shizuoka-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nOld Japanese Highway - Old Japanese Highway"Nakamichi Oukan" - PAPERSKY<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Maguro. In landlocked Yamanashi, locals are particularly attached to Maguro (tuna).\u00a0Yamanashi is the second largest consumer of Maguro in Japan and it\u2019s in first place in terms of the ratio of sushi joints per capita. The roots of this love for tuna can be traced all the way back to the Edo Period. Back then, tuna landed in Suruga Bay and were slung onto horseback and then conveyed from the post town of Yoshiwara (currently Fujinomiya City in Shizuoka Prefecture) along the T\u014dkaid\u014d road, taking the shortest route possible to arrive in the sushi stores of Kofu by the following dawn.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Old Japanese Highway - Old Japanese Highway"Nakamichi Oukan" - PAPERSKY\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Maguro. In landlocked Yamanashi, locals are particularly attached to Maguro (tuna).\u00a0Yamanashi is the second largest consumer of Maguro in Japan and it\u2019s in first place in terms of the ratio of sushi joints per capita. The roots of this love for tuna can be traced all the way back to the Edo Period. Back then, tuna landed in Suruga Bay and were slung onto horseback and then conveyed from the post town of Yoshiwara (currently Fujinomiya City in Shizuoka Prefecture) along the T\u014dkaid\u014d road, taking the shortest route possible to arrive in the sushi stores of Kofu by the following dawn.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"PAPERSKY\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/papersky\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2021-08-20T04:20:13+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-09-07T02:01:19+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/U4A798901.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1700\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1133\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Akira\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@paperskyonline\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@paperskyonline\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Akira\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"9 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Akira\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/7f7d2856215ca469e9a7515ab0df97fe\"},\"headline\":\"Old Japanese Highway “Nakamichi Oukan”\",\"datePublished\":\"2021-08-20T04:20:13+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-09-07T02:01:19+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1226,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/08\\\/U4A798901.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"issue 64\",\"kofu\",\"Maguro Road\",\"Nakamichi Oukan\",\"old japanese highway\",\"shizuoka\",\"tuna\",\"ubaguchi\",\"yamanashi\",\"\u30de\u30b0\u30ed\u30ed\u30fc\u30c9\",\"\u4e2d\u9053\u5f80\u9084\",\"\u53e4\u9053\",\"\u53f3\u5de6\u53e3\",\"\u5c71\u68a8\",\"\u65e5\u672c\u306e\u53e4\u9053\",\"\u8fe6\u8449\u5742\",\"\u9759\u5ca1\"],\"articleSection\":[\"LOCAL GUIDES\",\"HIKE & BIKE\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\\\/\",\"name\":\"Old Japanese Highway - Old Japanese Highway \\\"Nakamichi Oukan\\\" - PAPERSKY\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/en\\\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/papersky.jp\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/08\\\/U4A798901.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2021-08-20T04:20:13+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2021-09-07T02:01:19+00:00\",\"description\":\"Maguro. 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In landlocked Yamanashi, locals are particularly attached to Maguro (tuna).\u00a0Yamanashi is the second largest consumer of Maguro in Japan and it\u2019s in first place in terms of the ratio of sushi joints per capita. The roots of this love for tuna can be traced all the way back to the Edo Period. Back then, tuna landed in Suruga Bay and were slung onto horseback and then conveyed from the post town of Yoshiwara (currently Fujinomiya City in Shizuoka Prefecture) along the T\u014dkaid\u014d road, taking the shortest route possible to arrive in the sushi stores of Kofu by the following dawn.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Old Japanese Highway - Old Japanese Highway\"Nakamichi Oukan\" - PAPERSKY","og_description":"Maguro. In landlocked Yamanashi, locals are particularly attached to Maguro (tuna).\u00a0Yamanashi is the second largest consumer of Maguro in Japan and it\u2019s in first place in terms of the ratio of sushi joints per capita. The roots of this love for tuna can be traced all the way back to the Edo Period. Back then, tuna landed in Suruga Bay and were slung onto horseback and then conveyed from the post town of Yoshiwara (currently Fujinomiya City in Shizuoka Prefecture) along the T\u014dkaid\u014d road, taking the shortest route possible to arrive in the sushi stores of Kofu by the following dawn.","og_url":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/","og_site_name":"PAPERSKY","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/papersky","article_published_time":"2021-08-20T04:20:13+00:00","article_modified_time":"2021-09-07T02:01:19+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1700,"height":1133,"url":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/U4A798901.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Akira","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_creator":"@paperskyonline","twitter_site":"@paperskyonline","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Akira","Est. reading time":"9 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/"},"author":{"name":"Akira","@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/7f7d2856215ca469e9a7515ab0df97fe"},"headline":"Old Japanese Highway “Nakamichi Oukan”","datePublished":"2021-08-20T04:20:13+00:00","dateModified":"2021-09-07T02:01:19+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/"},"wordCount":1226,"commentCount":0,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/#organization"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/U4A798901.jpg","keywords":["issue 64","kofu","Maguro Road","Nakamichi Oukan","old japanese highway","shizuoka","tuna","ubaguchi","yamanashi","\u30de\u30b0\u30ed\u30ed\u30fc\u30c9","\u4e2d\u9053\u5f80\u9084","\u53e4\u9053","\u53f3\u5de6\u53e3","\u5c71\u68a8","\u65e5\u672c\u306e\u53e4\u9053","\u8fe6\u8449\u5742","\u9759\u5ca1"],"articleSection":["LOCAL GUIDES","HIKE & BIKE"],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/","url":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/","name":"Old Japanese Highway - Old Japanese Highway \"Nakamichi Oukan\" - PAPERSKY","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/#primaryimage"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/old-japanese-highway-nakamichi-oukan\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/U4A798901.jpg","datePublished":"2021-08-20T04:20:13+00:00","dateModified":"2021-09-07T02:01:19+00:00","description":"Maguro. In landlocked Yamanashi, locals are particularly attached to Maguro (tuna).\u00a0Yamanashi is the second largest consumer of Maguro in Japan and it\u2019s in first place in terms of the ratio of sushi joints per capita. The roots of this love for tuna can be traced all the way back to the Edo Period. 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