{"id":114665,"date":"2026-06-30T11:35:17","date_gmt":"2026-06-30T02:35:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/?p=114665"},"modified":"2026-06-30T11:59:41","modified_gmt":"2026-06-30T02:59:41","slug":"hamanatto","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/hamanatto\/","title":{"rendered":"Hamanatto"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

This variety of natto, the fermented soybean delicacy, isn\u2019t sticky or stringy. Chew on a black bean, and the sweetness of soy and the savory flavor drawn out by fermentation fills the mouth. Bite into a piece of karakawa<\/em>, and the spicy flavor of Japanese pepper causes a tingling sensation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hamanatto has long been produced at Buddhist temples to provide nourishment for the priests, who were not allowed to eat meat. Light and easy to carry, hard to spoil, and good for gut health, it was also a food of choice for samurai warriors going out to battle. And a favorite of tea masters from Sen no Rikyu (1522\u201391) onward, it was often served at Japanese tea ceremonies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Honcho Shoku Kagami<\/em> (Chronicle of Japanese Foods), compiled in the Genroku era (1688\u20131704), during the reign of the Tokugawa shogunate, dedicates a page to natto: \u201cDuring his youth at Sumpu Castle, Ieyasu [Tokugawa, later the founder of the shogunate that ruled Japan throughout the Edo period, from 1603 to 1868] had natto made by priests of the Enshu-Hamana temples Daifukuji and Makayaji.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Further, it says, \u201cThe recipe is a well-kept secret never taken out of the two temples, thus it is known by only a very few people.\u201d At the time, it was strictly confidential.<\/p>\n\n\n\n



Midsummer natto making\u2014all but a devotional practice<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n


The ancient temple Daifukuji, in the Mikkabicho district of Hamamatsu, not far from Lake Hamana, has produced Hamanatto since the Muromachi period (1336\u20131573). The chief priest continues to make the dish by hand today. The natto is prepared in midsummer and left to age, then taken outside on a fine autumn day to dry in the sun. According to custom, the finished product is presented to the parishioners as a New Year\u2019s gift.\u00a0 \u3000<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whereas the familiar sticky natto is mass produced by mixing steamed soybeans with the cultured bacterium Bacillus subtilis<\/em> var. natto<\/em>, Hamanatto is made following the predecessor\u2019s instructions: waiting for the natural koji mold to inoculate the steamed soybeans, caring for the live koji mold, and allowing the microorganisms to do their work at their own pace.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Preparation of the spice karakawa is completed in June. Preparation of the natto does not start until mid July, during the height of summer, when the koji mold ferments best. Having performed the morning service, the chief priest, Mr. Noriaki Horiguchi, begins making the soybean koji at five thirty in the morning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The process of propagating the koji mold on the steamed soybeans is called \u201cgrowing a bloom of koji.\u201d This is an important process that will determine the flavor of the natto. Two and a half bales of soybeans (150 kg) are added to a large pot with 14 liters of bubbling hot water for a quick boil, and drained while the core is still hard and the beans still smell green. The contents are then transferred to baskets and steamed slowly over charcoal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The work space is filled with white steam when the boiled soybeans are drained and transferred to steaming baskets.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The boiled soybeans are placed in stacks of four wooden baskets and steamed over charcoal. The bamboo sticks\u00a0in the middle help distribute the steam evenly\u2014a tool of wisdom.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The next morning, the soybeans are coated with parched barley powder and divided into wooden trays. Before long, honeybees attracted to the sweet scent appear out of nowhere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Natural koji mold loves a good treat too. The soybeans coated with parched barley powder are designed to act as bait to lure the koji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The steamed soybeans are coated with parched barley powder.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The beans are divided into trays and left to cool.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n



Growing a bloom of koji\u2014temperature control is the key<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n


Two days after the trays are taken to the koji room, called muro<\/em>, the koji mold begins to inoculate the soybeans. It\u2019s easy to tell because the koji generates a lot of heat during fermentation. Now it\u2019s a matter of keeping the mold happy and encouraging it to feed on the bait so that it produces the perfect soybean koji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But things are not that simple. If the temperature gets too high, unwanted bacteria will ruin the flavor. The temperature must be checked and regulated morning and night to soothe the mold and keep it comfortable. On a hot day, the doors are opened to bring the room temperature down; and when it feels cool enough, the doors are closed to maintain that temperature. When we humans feel cool, the koji feels cool too. When we feel hot, it feels hot too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The soybeans are placed in the koji room to grow a bloom of koji. Since the temperature is uneven throughout the room, it must be regulated to make the perfect soybean koji. The closer to the ceiling, the higher the temperature; bamboo sticks of varying thicknesses are used to adjust the space between the trays and pile them in stacks of ten. The trays are frequently restacked, moving those at the top to the bottom, and vice versa, and from the fourth day on alternating lengthwise and widthwise for better ventilation. The natural koji mold that has been dwelling in the temple for centuries is worthy of natural monument status.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In about ten days a fluffy, yellowish green koji mold covers every inch of the soybeans. The perfect soybean koji that has formed makes the producer smile with relief and affection for the \u201cbloom of koji.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mr. Horiguchi\u2019s wife, Ruriko, says her mind is so filled with the koji that she can hardly leave the temple grounds during the summer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe koji mold is alive. It can\u2019t be left alone, or it will go bad.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Soybean koji with a yellowish green bloom of koji. Pouches filled with karakawa are placed at the bottom of the wooden barrels and aged together.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Opening of the barrel. The Hamanatto has been aged for two and a half months with a stone weight over the lid.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n



On a fine day in October, the soybeans are taken out of the barrels and dried in the sun.<\/strong>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The Hamanatto is spread out on straw mats in the temple grounds, and turned over to dry in the sun. It\u2019s best if the batch can be dried in one day.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

How many priests have endured the sweltering heat to continue producing Hamanatto. The recipe for this unpretentious fermented soybean delicacy carries the weight of centuries of hard work, and is more valuable than any treasure lying in the temple\u2019s grounds. It may even be worthy of being named a national treasure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n



Making the forgotten spice karakawa<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n


Each package of Hamanatto contains pieces of a pungent something.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The occasional complaint comes from first-time customers. \u201cWhat is this foreign object, like a wood chip, in the product. I bit into it and my mouth went numb!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wood chip is not too far off. The foreign object in question is the pickled bark of the Japanese pepper tree, called karakawa<\/em>. The ancient spice was believed to be forgotten in history about a hundred years ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a0The fruits of Japanese pepper are small and spicy, but the bark is so hot that just a tiny fragment is enough to wake you up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIf you boil karakawa and release the water into the river, it will get eels drunk and draw them out. Small fishes will go numb and float to the surface too,\u201d says Mr. Horiguchi, mopping the sweat off his brow. \u201cThat was how we caught fish and eels when we were little.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Karakawa also serves as a natural preservative. When aged in barrels with the soybean koji, it repels insects and bacteria. The numbing stimulation must have been popular because karakawa comes up in records of tea ceremony gatherings dating to the Momoyama period (1573\u20131603). The common people in the Edo period chopped the bark and cooked it with the fruits in soy sauce and mirin to make a tsukudani<\/em> of Japanese pepper. The piquant flavor helped ward off drowsiness and even stimulated the brain and improved the function of the internal organs, serving as a stomachic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
A felled Japanese pepper tree. Today the number of trees has dropped, and with it, the production volume of karakawa.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The trunk and branches of a young Japanese pepper tree are boiled in an iron pot over firewood for about an hour. Just peeking into the pot stings the eyes. Once boiled, the bark is peeled off, its rough surface is scraped off with a spatula, and the inner bark is pickled in salt in an earthenware pot for a month.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The trunk and branches are boiled before peeling. When boiled just right, the bark slips off easily in one go. Even the tiniest branch does not go to waste.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The rough surface of the outer bark is scraped off with a bamboo spatula, and the inner bark is pickled in salt in an earthenware pot for a month.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Removing the outer bark is an ascetic feat. It is not the same as nipping the bud or picking the fruit. It means felling a very thorny Japanese pepper tree from the roots and transforming it into a spice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cAfter working all day long, my fingers go numb and I can\u2019t feel anything.\u201d The thought of giving up has crossed Ruriko\u2019s mind. But she always reconsiders because \u201cthere are people looking forward to the product.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How many producers before her have reconsidered to keep the custom of making karakawa alive for hundreds of years. It\u2019s not that old equals good. It\u2019s that people look forward to the good, and the producer lives up to the people\u2019s expectations, and the good is still here today. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The pickled karakawa is cut into thin slices, boiled again to desalinate, and placed in pouches at the bottom of the wooden barrels of soybean koji.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
After two and a half months at the bottom of the barrels, the amber-colored karakawa is dried in the sun and mixed with the natto to serve as a fresh stimulant and a natural preservative.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
The finished Hamanatto, complete with finely chopped amber-colored karakawa.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Package of Daifukuji Natto, the Hamanatto made at Daifukuji Temple.
photography : Hiroshi Ohashi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Daifukuji Temple<\/strong><\/a>
220-3 Mikkabi-cho Fukunaga, Hamana-ku, Hamamatsu-shi, Shizuoka<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n


* The copyrights for the photographs and articles published on this site belong to their respective right holders. Please note that appropriate steps may be taken in the event of any unauthorized use to protect these rights.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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