{"id":110466,"date":"2026-02-05T17:52:32","date_gmt":"2026-02-05T08:52:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/?p=110466"},"modified":"2026-02-20T09:56:33","modified_gmt":"2026-02-20T00:56:33","slug":"shodoshima-hike","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/shodoshima-hike\/","title":{"rendered":"SHODOSHIMA HIKE<br>Following in the Footsteps of K\u016bkai 1,200 Years Later<br>Mesmerized by Sea, Sky, and Mountains"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u203bThis article is a re-edited excerpt from content originally published in the April 2017 issue of the magazine PAPERSKY no.53.<\/a><\/strong>
<\/p>\n\n\n\n


<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
A postcard-perfect beach in the small town of Kobe, with calm waters, blue skies, and powdery white sand.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Lucas B.B., editor-in-chief of PAPERSKY, first fell in love with walking Japan\u2019s old routes in 2009 during a journey along the Tokaido. Spanning roughly 490 kilometers between Nihonbashi and Kyoto, this historic artery of Edo-period culture takes just two and a half hours to traverse by bullet train\u2014an easy day trip in modern terms. But Lucas chose to spend nearly two weeks walking it. That experience taught him the true value of moving slowly, in most cases, under 5 kilometers per hour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cRoads don\u2019t just carry people and goods,\u201d Lucas says, reflecting on the walk. \u201cThey carry culture and history too. Eating delicious food, soaking in hot springs, and staying in old post towns\u2026 when you walk through all the changing landscapes, climbing up and down mountain passes, the culture tied to the road seeps in, and your emotions shift along with it. That\u2019s what I discovered makes walking journeys so fascinating.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Swaying gently in the breeze, a thousand-year-old olive tree, brought all the way from Spain, 10,000 kilometers away.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Which brings us to Shodoshima. This actually marks Lucas\u2019s second time here. He had privately completed the same route at the end of last year and was completely captivated by the depth of the island\u2019s pilgrimage paths.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe whole pilgrimage on Shodoshima is only about 150km. But within that short distance, there are so many layers, packed in tight. One moment you\u2019re strolling by the sea, and the next you\u2019re climbing a mountain trail, using chains to reach a temple perched on a cliff. The landscape shifts dramatically, from sea to mountains, rocks, and forests. That kind of dynamic change is something only a remote island can offer.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unlike the usual routes tied to history and culture, this journey had a slightly different tone, rooted more firmly in religion. Even for someone like Lucas, who\u2019s walked many ancient paths, Shodoshima was his first time undertaking a true pilgrimage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI think a lot of people instinctively shy away when they hear the word \u2018henro-michi\u2019 (pilgrimage path). Then I walked it myself, and I realized that this psychological barrier isn\u2019t just something outsiders feel. It exists among the islanders, too. I asked a few locals, \u2018Have you ever walked the pilgrimage path?\u2019 and many replied, \u2018I\u2019ve never even thought about it.\u2019 Because it\u2019s a path of religious devotion, many assume it has nothing to do with them. That mindset seems fairly common on the island.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Lucas and the statue of K\u016bkai watching over the Yanagi port, looking like twins.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For this trip, the PAPERSKY team made a point of wearing white as an homage to the traditional attire of Ohenro-san (pilgrims). It wasn\u2019t out of religious devotion, but rather out of respect for the pilgrim culture. Still, something curious happened along the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The act of walking began to stir something inside us. When we lit incense and chanted a mantra at the first temple of the day, we felt a sense of clarity wash over us. Maybe it was the subtle pride of knowing we were walking on the tail end of a tradition that had been passed down on this island for over a thousand years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBut it\u2019d be a shame to avoid this path just because it\u2019s religious,\u201d declares Lucas. \u201cIt\u2019s packed with special qualities you can only find in Japan, and honestly, it\u2019s one of the best trails I\u2019ve walked. That\u2019s exactly why I wanted to invite friends and even locals to walk it with me. You don\u2019t need to pray or visit every temple. Once you\u2019re out there, I think you\u2019ll naturally become curious about the culture of Ohenro.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Seto Inland Sea at dusk, awash in soft evening shades.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Determined to make the most of this sacred mountain route, even the intimidating chain sections couldn\u2019t hold us back.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Wandering through the island\u2019s maze-like backstreets, feeling like travelers in a foreign land.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Lucas always connects with people during his travels. This time, he invited key local figures to walk alongside him, sharing the same views, steps, and stories along the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cTake Tadahiro Inoue, for example, who joined us on Day 2. He was born and raised on the island, but he\u2019s constantly going places, picking up new ideas, and thinking about how to bring them back home to benefit the island. At the same time, he\u2019s proud of where he\u2019s from and doesn\u2019t hesitate to show it off, getting people involved, starting new things, shaking things up. It\u2019s people like him who keep local communities alive and interesting. Spending a whole day walking together gave us time to really connect. That\u2019s one of the best parts of these kinds of trips.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Wandering through the island\u2019s maze-like backstreets, feeling like travelers in a foreign land.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
This red finger was our signpost, pointing the way forward.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One thing Lucas often notices while traveling through the countryside is a kind of \u201ccity allergy\u201d that some transplants from urban areas seem to develop. It\u2019s a reaction to all things metropolitan. To Lucas, that\u2019s a shame. Cities and rural areas each have their own strengths. It\u2019s not about which is better or worse, but about blending the best of both. That spirit, he believes, is where the most exciting movements begin to take shape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s why the people we met on Shodoshima were so encouraging. The locals, like Inoue-san, are unique and carry a grounded but open and neutral perspective.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOn day three, we walked with Tomohiro Watari. And honestly, I felt like he was the model example of what this trip could be. He\u2019s super into the outdoors, but until now, walking just wasn\u2019t really his thing. Still, once he started exploring the island on foot and connecting with its culture firsthand, he began to have a blast. He told us this journey changed how he thinks about walking. Watari\u2019s always been passionate about climbing, so if he can weave the cultural side of the island into that passion, I think both his work and the local climbing scene could really grow in exciting ways.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Guided by Morishita-san, a local sendatsu, we learned the rituals and proper etiquette for visiting the sacred sites.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Another deeply moving part of the pilgrimage experience was learning about the sendatsu, or veteran pilgrims who serve as guides and leaders for others. On Shodoshima, these experienced locals take the initiative in maintaining and preserving the trails. It\u2019s thanks to their tireless efforts that we can still walk the very same paths carved out by K\u016bkai, aka K\u014db\u014d Daishi, over 1,200 years ago. The dedication of these few aside, even this tradition feels precarious, like a flame on the verge of being extinguished.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOne of Japan\u2019s greatest cultural assets, I think, is how it can speak about something that happened 1,200 years ago as if it were just a few decades back. But I worry that Japan these days is trading that richness for efficiency, letting these irreplaceable traditions quietly fade away. On our first day, Morishita-san, the sendatsu who guided us, told me that the number of pilgrims has plummeted over the last 20 years. With fewer people walking, the paths fall into disrepair. So then, what can people like us, who work in media, actually do for these trails? The answer is simple. Walk them. Experience them. And share what we see. That\u2019s how the culture lives on.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Hiking with old friend Inoue-san through the hills. Rambling jokes during breaks became some of the best memories.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Traditional streetscapes carry the island\u2019s history and culture. You can\u2019t help but hope these scenes remain for years to come.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

John Muir, the famed naturalist behind the trail that bears his name, was known for never hiking alone. He\u2019d always bring a friend along, believing the shared experience made the journey richer. That idea stuck with Lucas. Since then, he has made it a thing to invite as many different people as he can when heading out on a trail. The more people walk together, the more surface area that journey has to impact others.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
We crossed more mountain passes than we could count, pausing to take in the sea glowing under the evening sun.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSomething clicked on this trip,\u201d says Lucas. \u201cIt confirmed that walking alongside the locals creates a deeper connection to the island and the trail itself. Everyone who joined us came away with a genuine interest in the pilgrimage path.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back when I walked the Tokaido eight years ago, no one cared about a 490km walking journey. But now, more and more people are curious, even excited, to walk together. If continuing to share this kind of experience helps bring attention to these trails and the cultural value they hold, then I know I\u2019m doing something worthwhile.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n


Lucas B.B.<\/strong>
American-born creative director, editor, and editor-in-chief of PAPERSKY. After graduating from the University of California, he came to Japan. He is actively involved in a wide range of projects, including event production for the \u201cPAPERSKY tour de Nippon\u201d journey of rediscovering Japan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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