{"id":105612,"date":"2025-07-28T17:44:25","date_gmt":"2025-07-28T08:44:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/?p=105612"},"modified":"2025-07-28T23:22:03","modified_gmt":"2025-07-28T14:22:03","slug":"tour-de-nippon-niijima-story","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/papersky.jp\/en\/tour-de-nippon-niijima-story\/","title":{"rendered":"Where Nature Paints Outside the Lines"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Born of this island, found nowhere else<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n


In just a few short hours, Tokyo\u2019s concrete sprawl gives way to islands that feel worlds apart. That heady rush of arrival is all part of the island getaway. Blinding white cliffs rise above a milky-blue sea\u2014an arresting sight shaped by deep geological time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Izu Archipelago was formed tens of thousands of years ago by volcanic eruptions, its islands mostly dark with basalt. But Niijima and Shikinejima are rare exceptions, cloaked in pale rhyolite. A powerful eruption in the late Heian period hewed their current forms and unearthed k\u014dga stone\u2014a luminous white rock found only here, prized for its lightness, fire-resistance, and ease of shaping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
J\u016bsansha Shrine, built with distinctive Koga stone\u2014a serene power spot where clear air flows.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cK\u014dga stone can be rendered into various forms,\u201d explains Kumi Umeda of Hostel NABLA, as she guides us through Niijima\u2019s stone-crafted streets. Round windows cut into house walls, ornate eaves carved with surprising finesse\u2014these are details only k\u014dga stone makes possible. Winters on the island are lashed by fierce western winds; fires sparked by gusts once ravaged the island. Out of this danger came the idea to build with the island\u2019s own fire-resistant stone. Shrines, torii gates, and even gravestones of exiles once banished to Niijima in the Edo period\u2014many are carved from k\u014dga stone. Moss-covered white shrines stand quietly dignified. Some gravestones bear playful carvings: dice for gamblers, sake barrels for drinkers\u2014echoes of connection between the islanders and the exiled. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bouquets of vivid flowers placed with care offer a burst of color that lingers in memory. Heated, k\u014dga stone transforms into a translucent olive-green glass, naturally pigmented by its own mineral content. Holding one of these Niijima glass spheres up to the light, it shimmers like a distillation of nature and human craft.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The internationally renowned Niijima Glass Art Center<\/em> showcases striking works in Niijima glass\u2014many of which are available for purchase.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Kusaya\u2014often dubbed Japan\u2019s most pungent fermented food\u2014is a bona fide Niijima product. With no rice to pay tax in, islanders under the Edo shogunate delivered salt instead. To conserve this precious resource, they reused the same brine to make dried fish\u2014kusaya was born from that frugality. \u201cI still get hungry when I catch a whiff,\u201d laughs Ryota Ikemura of Iketa Shoten. \u201cBack in school, the smell would waft through the village on Saturday afternoons.\u201d He offers a brown kusaya stick\u2014hesitantly, you take a bite. The flavor is sharp, singular. Not for everyone, perhaps, but worth a try.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Kusaya: fermented gut-friendly delicacy with a loyal health-conscious following.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Not just for kusaya\u2014salt is the soul of island cuisine, and of life itself. \u201cHumans came from the sea, after all,\u201d says Yusuke Saiki, whose fascination with salt led him to craft a version unique to Niijima. By day, he runs Nagomi-dokoro Sunshine<\/em>; in between, he boils down seawater using island offcuts for firewood, insulating his iron cauldron with K\u014dga stone, and drying with Habushiura sand. \u201cWhen you taste salt and can picture the sea behind it, I think that feeling connects us to caring for the Earth,\u201d he says. Niijima\u2019s sea\u2014untouched by river runoff\u2014yields a pure, sharp salt. Close your eyes and taste it, and it\u2019s as if you\u2019re standing in the Pacific\u2019s clear, surging tide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Saiki-san learned salt-making in Yamaguchi; now crafting sweets from island-grown American potatoes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n


On this small island, a quiet moment stirred with deep gratitude.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n


That day, I set out to stay on Shikinejima\u2014just a ten-minute ferry ride from Niijima Port. As the boat cut through the spray, a sense of adventure stirred. Just 12 kilometers around, the island is ringed with inlets. Soon after arriving, a local fishing master handed me a rod with a nod: \u201cGive it a try.\u201d A flash of silver\u2014an aomuro<\/em> horse mackerel on the line\u2014marked an auspicious start. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

My first port of call is Okuyama, the island\u2019s general store where proprietor Toshihito Okuyama distills his own shochu using American sweet potatoes he grows himself. Aged three years, the result is smooth, aromatic, and deeply rooted in local flavor. He\u2019s also working on new products that highlight this unique crop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Shikinejima, a hidden paradise for fishing lovers, where you can cast a line year-round.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Chasing the sunset, I hurry to the Kamabiki Observatory, where the Izu Peninsula and Mount Fuji come into view. Below, the sea shimmers in layered shades of blue. The sun sinks into the horizon, turning white stone and creeping pines to gold. Behind me, Niijima is awash in soft hues. A quiet joy settles in, imagining the colors this island has witnessed across the ages. Before night falls, I make my way to Guesthouse Hidabun. Laughter drifts from the kitchen\u2014regulars and locals gathered, sharing a warm, familiar evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Guesthouse Hidabun\u2014ideal for extended stays or a remote work escape.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The next morning, I listened to a sermon at T\u014dy\u014d-ji Temple. Chief priest Tomoyuki Yokoyama spoke of the temple as a place to release suffering and attachments, and to offer gratitude to one\u2019s ancestors. A quiet morning spent in meditation, focusing on the breath. On the way out, his gentle smile eased my mind as he said, \u201cWhen you find yourself overthinking things you can\u2019t control, move your body and soak in the hot springs.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shikinejima\u2019s onsen are famed, even visited by poet Akiko Yosano for healing. Deep in a gorge that looks cleaved open by a blade lies Jinata Onsen, a wild spring where iron-rich water gushes from the seafloor at 80\u00b0C, its temperature shifting with the tides. There\u2019s even a nighttime sea onsen tour led by Mitsuyo Hida, proprietress of Hidabun Inn. Floating in the dark ocean beneath a sky full of stars, waves whispering all around\u2014you\u2019ll find a kind of mindfulness that exists only here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Soft sunset twilight at Shikinejima\u2019s Kamibiki Observatory.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A journey across Niijima and Shikinejima\u2014so close there are even theories they were once connected by land. Shaped over ages by nature and human wisdom, these islands continue to produce hues found nowhere else. As time layers like sediment, new shades emerge. To witness these ever-changing tones, I find myself drawn back again and again, crossing the sea between these two islands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Niijima\u2019s Habushiura Beach: a striking contrast of endlessly unfolding sheer white cliffs and milky-blue surf.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Jinata\u201d shochu from\u00a0Okuyama, paired with shochu-marinated seafood.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n


Sea, mountains, and town strolls\u2014
Island hopping between Niijima and Shikinejima

Tour de Nippon
Niijima & Shikinejima
September 27\u201328, 2025 (Saturday & Sunday)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Day 1 begins at Niijima\u2019s harbor. Feel the sea breeze as you cycle and stroll through Niijima\u2019s vast landscapes and rich history. Explore stunning, almost exotic beaches and hike with ocean views. By evening, take the ferry to neighboring Shikinejima, where you\u2019ll savor fresh island seafood and relax in hot springs. On Day 2, start with meditation at a temple to center your mind, then enjoy sea fishing and visit scenic, secluded hot springs. Experience two days of island hopping between Niijima and Shikinejima\u2014a perfect escape from the city\u2019s hustle, filled with new discoveries and connections. Join us for this unforgettable journey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n


Tour de Nippon Guide
Niijima & Shikinejima<\/strong>

Hostel NABLA<\/a>
Tokyo-to, Niijima-mura, Motomura 6-3-1
TEL\uff1a04992-5-0376<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Iketa Shoten<\/a>
Tokyo-to Niijima-mura Motomura 6-3-3 
TEL\uff1a04992-5-0118<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nagomi Dokoro Sunshine<\/a>
Tokyo-to Niijima-mura Motomura 6-1-3
TEL\uff1a080-3713-4157<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Niijima Glass Art Centre<\/a>
Mamashita Seaside Road, Niijima Village, Tokyo Prefecture
TEL\uff1a04992-5-1540<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Okuyama<\/a>
T\u014dky\u014d-to Niijima-mura Shikinejima 281-1
TEL\uff1a04992-7-0211<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Guesthouse Hidabun<\/a>
9 Shikinejima, T\u014dky\u014d-to Niijima-mura 
TEL\uff1a04992-7-0072<\/p>\n\n\n\n

T\u014dy\u014dji Temple<\/a>
T\u014dky\u014d-to Niijima-mura Shikinejima 11-1
TEL\uff1a04992-7-0133<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Just 160 km south of Tokyo in the middle of the Pacific are the neighboring islands of Niijima and Shikinejima. Though part of the Izu chain, they feel worlds away\u2014reached in just 2.5 hours by ferry or 40 minutes by plane. Their landscapes, so unlike Tokyo\u2019s, stir a deep sense of escape. Each island has its own character, inviting visitors to island-hop between them. This is a journey into vivid, unseen hues\u2014shaped over time by nature and the lives of those who call these islands home.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":105656,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":false,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"enabled":false},"version":2},"_wpas_customize_per_network":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[119,121],"tags":[8589,9477,9439,1337],"place":[133],"writer":[],"class_list":["post-105612","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-local-guides-en","category-trip-en","tag-island","tag-niijima","tag-shikinejima","tag-tour-de-nippon-en","place-tokyo-en"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWhere Nature Paints Outside the Lines - PAPERSKY<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Just 160 km south of Tokyo in the middle of the Pacific are the neighboring islands of Niijima and Shikinejima. 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